Pipes and Pipe Smoking

The Tobacco Pipe Artistory

Wed, 11 May 2011 23:15:23 -0700

Avid Collectors Launch Virtual Antique Pipe Museum
After many years of collaborative thought given to the idea of a virtual antique pipe museum, Daniel Beck and Ben Rapaport recently launched The Tobacco Pipe Artistory on Facebook. This site, which was launched in May, is wholly focused on the study and celebration of antique tobacco pipes in every medium from around the globe.
“Artistory” is a compound noun of art + history that was coined by Beck and Rapaport. Their objective is to create a singular, accessible Web site that will display myriad images of antique pipes and also contain photos, videos, pertinent articles, auction news, a selective bibliography, and related links. All media is supplemented with relevant textual narrative written by these two avid and longtime collectors.
Additionally, there is a discussion forum for the exchange of information and ideas, in order to evolve a better, more universal understanding of these long-gone utensils of smoke, and to draw attention to the exceptionally skilled craftsmanship of thousands of unknown artisans who, for some 200 years, produced pipes in meerschaum, assorted woods, ivory, porcelain, clay, and various metals. Also exhibited will be pipes in other mediums, such as bone, steatite, Catlinite, and others, from an even earlier era.
Beck and Rapaport believe that The Tobacco Pipe Artistory will serve as a very unique clearinghouse for all who seek an informed and expansive education, including: pipe collectors, pipe smokers, researchers, curators, art students, personal property appraisers, historians, and tobacco industry personnel.
The Tobacco Pipe Artistory will continue to be a work in progress, but Beck and Rapaport believe that, with the contributions of others, it can gradually metamorphose into one of the most entertaining, instructive, and visually exciting pipe venues on the Internet. Those who have something to contribute are encouraged follow along and participate.
For more information, visit the website at: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Tobacco-Pipe-Artistory/101191206631918

Pipe Questions and Answers

Wed, 13 Apr 2011 16:08:17 -0700

Ask the Pipe Doc is a regular column comprised of questions and answers provided as a way of educating pipe smokers. Answers are provided by our resident 'Pipe Doc,' Marty Pulvers.]

Question from Ryan: : I recently purchased my first briar from Amazon, and I ordered some Captain Black - White Label from an online retailer. I've read you telling people to trust their pallet when shopping for their preferred smoke. My questions are:
1. How much of each tobacco should I smoke to get a good feel for its flavor?
2. When trying different brands, do you clean your pipe thoroughly between brands/flavors?
3. If you do clean it thoroughly, do you rebuild the cake with each new flavor?

I appreciate the clarification as I'm obviously still learning the process.

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Ryan... There has got to be a better way of trying to make a living than answering 3-part questions for free. Would you subject your lawyer to this kind of interrogation and expect no 4-digit bill? Well, on the other hand, my wife just brought me a fresh cup of coffee, so let's give it a try…

In my opinion, finding a decent pipe is easy... they almost all are at least decent. Finding a tobacco style(s) that fits your personal taste is hard. How do you go about that? Well, my suggestion is that you find a good retail tobacconist (and lately, that is not an easy proposition), with a knowledgeable staff, or at least a staff that is not afraid to get their fat asses off the stool. Then, ask for a sample, an ounce, maybe (which you will pay for), of the 3 major styles of tobacco:

1) Virginia or Virginia-centric blend;
2) a Latakia blend;
3) an aromatic, or flavored tobacco.

Then, smoke them in the order given above. At this point, you can use the same pipe, and we will get to that later. This, hopefully, will give you an idea of what you really don't like. Great. By elimination, you can dispense with worrying about one whole category, or maybe two. You can now concentrate on what you like and do some sampling (and paying) on your own. Just like wine, to find out what you like, you absolutely must open them and taste them. There is simply no other way, and certainly not by reading reviews or listening to friends, who have not done a Vulcan Mind-Meld with your palate. People rave about truffles. Leaves me cold.

To answer your question as specifically as I can, there is no set number of bowls for you to smoke. If you decide in 10 minutes that you don't like a tobacco, or a style, why should you force yourself to suffer through the whole bag? Trust yourself. Don't trust me, and I'll make that clear when I submit my bill at the end of this…

As for cleaning your pipe thoroughly, you do that after every smoke, regardless. That may be the one inflexible rule I'd impose on a pipe smoker under my tutelage. Always use your cleaners until they come out clean. Cheap, easy and the best guarantee of continued sweet smoking. A consistent, good cleaning will eliminate the need for more complex cleaning for, perhaps, years.

Then, when you have the wherewithal you must devote a pipe to only one kind of tobacco style. If you smoke Latakia blends in it, it will do no good to put in an aromatic, or even a Virginia. Some people devote pipes to specific brands, even in the same category. I'm really nowhere near that obsessive or compulsive. I'm only looking for a good smoke, not data for a scientific paper.

But for the first few trial smokes of a new smoker, you can simply use your one or two pipes and pipe cleaners. You do not have to ream the bowl chamber. Cake will build up over time, or not. I smoke only Latakia blends (see...I have a narrow palate and it hasn't ruined my life) and get hardly any cake. Every decade or so I may take my pipe into my pipe-cleaning room and do serious internal cleaning and even a bit of reaming.

About the Pipe Doc: Our “Pipe Doc” normally goes by the name of Marty Pulvers, except when he is alerted that an APB has been issued for him. Indeed, he states, his proudest achievement is that he has been in the pipe and tobacco business for over 30 years and still has no convictions.
Other credentials include his being named a Doctor of Pipes by the Chicagoland Pipe Club and a Certified Kapnismologist (don't ask) by Pipe Collector's International... now defunct (don't ask). He is also a Certified Beer Judge, which he concedes has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but might help explain, in advance, the quality and tenor of some of his answers to your pipe questions.
Marty began his pipe voyage in abject ignorance of pipes and tobacco, and over the 45-plus years of pipe smoking, he claims to have experienced and learned a lot. Alas, he's willing to admit that it is possible he has been at it so long that this journey may have resulted in a complete circle.

Pipe Questions and Answers

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 00:40:36 -0800

[Ask the Pipe Doc is a regular column comprised of questions and answers provided as a way of educating pipe smokers. Answers are provided by our resident 'Pipe Doc,' Marty Pulvers.]

Question from Bill: Many pipe-makers today use a "coating" on the inside of their bowls. The idea is to hasten break in and start forming a cake right away. I feel it covers the grain of the briar and also any imperfections that might be seen. Is there any advantage for this coating -and what is the coating usually made of?

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Bill... Your question is not just a good one, it effects almost every pipe and pipe maker extant. It is an issue that should be addressed, and believe me, I have tried to address it many times, but nobody listens to me. What am I, a Pipe Doctor or Chopped Liver?

The use of "coating" inside pipe bowls is an abomination in the sight of God and an insult to pipe makers, and I'm not sure which is worse, but I opt for the latter. More than covering the way the briar looks inside the bowl (and a customer should be entitled to see how that critical pipe section actually looks) is the fact that it will create an impermeable barrier between the tobacco and the wood that the customer is ostensibly paying good money to taste and to have interact with the tobacco.

Most pipe makers use one form or another of what is called "water glass." You can Google it if you want to know the properties of that material. It is not good. To repeat myself, it keeps the pipe from ever becoming a natural partner with the tobacco and only minimally will prevent a burnout, should the briar be weak, which is a rather rare event. And, as I said, it is an insult to a person buying an expensive pipe to tell them that they don't know how to smoke a pipe without smoking too hot.

Paul Perri, the most experienced pipe maker in the U.S., I think I can safely say, gave me a tutorial on a proper bowl coating (he doesn't use any bowl coating in his pipes) and it requires straining real charcoal, not using a chemical solution. To my knowledge, and I do have pipe knowledge, no pipe maker around today is going through the laborious process of making a proper, acceptable coating. My advice? If you can, eschew buying a pipe with bowl coating. It's not always possible, but it is possible a lot. Castello doesn't coat their pipes, and think of their nearly exalted reputation. Neither does Vollmer & Nilsson of Sweden and mostly neither does Il Duca of Italy.

Here's a tip: if you buy a pipe with a coating, simply wash out that coating with water.
This will only work if you do this before the pipe has been smoked. If the pipe has been smoked, fuggedaboutit. But, before the pipe has been smoked, the water glass is water soluble. You might have to rub a bit to get rid of it, or even use a bit of steel wool, but most of it will wash away and you will have a natural bowl experience. I've done it for me and I've done it for customers.

Finally, you might see if Greg Pease, that extremely thoughtful and knowledgeable
tobacco blender has an article on bowl coating in his chronicle archives on line. I know that he has the arguments against bowl coating down to a very logical turn; he will be more convincing that I am, with more specific information (Visit G.L. Pease’s website at: http://www.glpease.com/).

Marty, the Pipe Doc (and not Chopped Liver)

About the Pipe Doc: Our “Pipe Doc” normally goes by the name of Marty Pulvers, except when he is alerted that an APB has been issued for him. Indeed, he states, his proudest achievement is that he has been in the pipe and tobacco business for over 30 years and still has no convictions.
Other credentials include his being named a Doctor of Pipes by the Chicagoland Pipe Club and a Certified Kapnismologist (don't ask) by Pipe Collector's International... now defunct (don't ask). He is also a Certified Beer Judge, which he concedes has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but might help explain, in advance, the quality and tenor of some of his answers to your pipe questions.
Marty began his pipe voyage in abject ignorance of pipes and tobacco, and over the 45-plus years of pipe smoking, he claims to have experienced and learned a lot. Alas, he's willing to admit that it is possible he has been at it so long that this journey may have resulted in a complete circle.

Pipe Questions and Answers

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 01:23:09 -0700

[Ask the Pipe Doc is a regular column comprised of questions and answers provided as a way of educating pipe smokers. Answers are provided by our resident 'Pipe Doc,' Marty Pulvers.]

AT A GLANCE...
Q#1: Best container for long-term cellaring. Humidity? Should I stockpile?
Q#2: Online tobacco vendors
Q#3: Saving a pipe from burnout.

Question from David: Okay, Doc: Gimme your take on the political landscape -- and, when you're done, some advice on what to do. For example: best vehicle for long-term cellaring (mason jars?), and at what humidity? Should I stock up now ahead of even higher taxes or outright ban on the mailing of tobacco?

Answer from the Pipe Doc: David... When I get a question from you, David, I always know that it's going to test me. Hold on while I get out this old Lovat and fill it up...

Ok. If you are talking about cellaring bulk tobacco, and it sounds as though you are, I think mason jars are excellent. In fact, this pipe I am now smoking is filled from a screw-top 26 oz. Laura Scudder peanut butter jar, that is now holding some 1999 Crown Achievement from Lane. They don't make it any more. The tobacco is still quite moist. As long as you don't keep the jars in sunlight or extreme heat, I don't think you need to worry about humidity or even temperature. As stated, the enclosed jar will retain its moisture.

Below: Mason jars and other glass or ceramic containers
are great for storing tobacco

I always recommend stocking up on tobacco. Prices will always go up, as will taxes. But there other reasons, perhaps even more important than money. If you find something you really like, you can be certain that the blend will either change (because of a change of producer, difficulty in obtaining tobacco or outright discontinuance...and don't let popularity fool you into thinking that a brand will stay in production) or become unobtainable for any number of reasons. In short, I can't recommend stocking up strongly enough, and I don't even sell tobacco anymore.

Marty, The Pipe Doc

Question from Rubin: First off I would like to thank you for all the information you have provided so far. I have been a cigar smoker for years now and have just recently decided to give pipes a shot. My problem is that I live in an area that doesn't have very many tobacco shops with a variety of pipe tobacco. My question is if you could direct me to a few online retailers that have good samplers of tobacco and that are reputable. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Rubin... Thank you so much for the kind words. They are appreciated, and I intend to keep on with this business/hobby/love of mine for as long as I can.

Let me try to make a couple of suggestions for you, but please remember that nothing is more subjective that one's taste in tobacco. Ultimately, or sooner than that, you will have to learn to rely on yourself and your tastes. To get samples and personal service, I think I might start with Park-Lane Tobacconist in Clifton Park, N.Y. The proprietor is Paul Bonaquisti and I doubt that are many more knowledgeable people around than Paul. http://www.parklanetobacconist.com

Ask for a variety of one-ounce samples and certainly offer to pay for these sample sizes (one ounce is plenty to get an idea about a tobacco).

For a variety of tins, you can go to http://smokingpipes.com. I doubt that they will be able to provide samples, and you may not get very personal service, but I know them to be very honest and reliable and well stocked.

Another resource would be Rich's tobacco shop in Portland Oregon. On staff is one Steve Brooks. He is passionate about tobacco, has blended many of their tobaccos himself and would probably be thrilled to get you started off right.

I hope this helps a bit.
Marty, The Pipe Doc.

Question from William: I have a couple of pipes where the finish is noticeably darker in one spot and the pipe had smoked hot. What can I do to stop the pipe from burning out. I smoke the pipe slower now and pack it looser. Is there any treatment I can do to "save" the pipe since they are high end models?

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Bill... Yes, I think the pipe can be saved, although clearly a little damage has already been done. Consider taking some ash, preferably from a good quality cigar or non-aromatic pipe tobacco. From that ash make a thick paste, meaning use very, very little water. A few drops goes a long way. You can adjust as needed. Simply spread that paste over the threatened area and let it dry a couple of days, and then smoke away.

I used this method on a Four Dot Sasieni that I had in my basket for $10. Nobody wanted a pipe with a damaged inner chamber, so I took it back, used the above method, with cigar ash, and have the pipe in front of me now, it having provided over 20 years worth of service.

Put that in your pipe and smoke it. Also, I am glad that you have apparently survived another Upstate New York winter.

Marty, The Pipe Doc

About the Pipe Doc: Our “Pipe Doc” normally goes by the name of Marty Pulvers, except when he is alerted that an APB has been issued for him. Indeed, he states, his proudest achievement is that he has been in the pipe and tobacco business for over 30 years and still has no convictions.
Other credentials include his being named a Doctor of Pipes by the Chicagoland Pipe Club and a Certified Kapnismologist (don't ask) by Pipe Collector's International... now defunct (don't ask). He is also a Certified Beer Judge, which he concedes has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but might help explain, in advance, the quality and tenor of some of his answers to your pipe questions.
Marty began his pipe voyage in abject ignorance of pipes and tobacco, and over the 45-plus years of pipe smoking, he claims to have experienced and learned a lot. Alas, he's willing to admit that it is possible he has been at it so long that this journey may have resulted in a complete circle.

Questions and Answers

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:28:40 -0700

Ask the Pipe Doc is a regular column comprised of questions and answers provided as a way of educating pipe smokers. Answers are provided by our resident 'Pipe Doc,' Marty Pulvers.]

AT A GLANCE...
Q#1: Cracked stem on an antique pipe
Q#2: Question about pipe filters
Q#3: A cedar pipe?

Question from Christopher: Dear Pipe Doc: I recently purchased a pipe with a "CPF" logo on the side of the bowl. By my research this is a very old pipe, which was made by "Consolidated Pipe Factory" back in the early to mid 1900s. The problem that I'm having is that the stem is cracked. This is a very nice pipe, but I'm not even sure where to go about getting another stem. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Christopher

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear Christopher... I am not sure what you mean by "the stem is cracked." Is there a fissure down the length of the stem? Perhaps the material is not vulcanite (which tends not to crack, but might well break apart if damaged). Or, perhaps the stem is made of amber, or an early plastic, like bakkelite, which might well crack.

Knowing the material the stem is made from is important; if the stem is made from vulcanite, it would be easier, and less expensive, to have a new stem made. If the stem was made from a more exotic material, the cost can be in the $60 or so range, which we can all agree is a good thing. By paying that amount, you can feel a bit self-righteous, knowing that you are helping support one of a dwindling number of craftsmen who work on such projects as your old pipe. In any case, stems from the period you mention are shaped very differently than stems made today, and it will take more than a standard pipe repair man to duplicate the style.

I am a bit reluctant to suggest specific individuals in a public forum, for fear of slighting anyone, but if you need the name and address of somebody who can do a good replica, I can certainly provide a name for you. I should say, however, that the repair will have to be made for sentimental and not pecuniary reasons. Rare is the CPF that will, in the open market, recoup the amount of a repair.

Finally, if all you want is a stem with which you can smoke the pipe, you can walk into any pipe shop in the country and have them re-stem the pipe with something that will prove to be perfectly utilitarian for about $20.

Good Smoking;
Marty, The Pipe Doc

Question from William: I have noted that many European pipes have filters. My question is: "Will the pipe smoke as well or better without these filters?" Years ago I smoked Kaywoodie pipes with a "stinger" inside which I always removed and found less "gurgle." Would the removal of the filter act in the same way?

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear William... I am not going to make this answer any more complex than it need be. Avoid filters. If you have a filter, remove it. If you can't remove it, throw the pipe out. That will save a lot you of grief and save you time spent writing letters to people with bad attitudes. Also, use your pipe cleaners regularly and without regard to the 5 cents you might save by not using one. Keep inserting the pipe cleaners (usually just two) until they come out clean. That completely obviates the need for a filter. Just remember the adage: "Pipe Men do not use filters."

Photo: Regularly use pipe cleaners instead of a filter

As Always,
Marty, The Pipe Doc (and still practicing… even if he doesn't always wash his hands before operating).

Question from Kyle: Dear Pipe Doc: I am an amateur pipe maker and was wondering if it is safe to make and smoke a pipe made of Cedar? Thank you for your help.

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear Kyle... No! Cedar is too soft a wood. It will burn, it will burn your hand, and it will not last long enough to burn the tobacco. Do not do it.

Cedar is also far too aromatic a wood. The flavor of the wood (and god knows how many pounds of resinous material) will completely overwhelm any tobacco you might want to use.

If you want to experiment with different woods, and that might well be a fun-filled enterprise that I encourage look into the various fruit-woods (Cherry wood has long been used as pipe material; maybe for longer than briar has been used) and other hard woods. The trouble with many of the hard woods is that they will be heavy, and thus not be comfortable to hold in the mouth… but they might make a good tasting pipe.

Keep the cedar for lining your closet or your cigar humidor (do not use aromatic cedar for lining your cigar humidor… see above regarding aromatic emissions). Have fun with the hobby and be sure to write when you get good.

Best Wishes,
Marty, The Pipe Doc

About the Pipe Doc: Our “Pipe Doc” normally goes by the name of Marty Pulvers, except when he is alerted that an APB has been issued for him. Indeed, he states, his proudest achievement is that he has been in the pipe and tobacco business for over 30 years and still has no convictions.
Other credentials include his being named a Doctor of Pipes by the Chicagoland Pipe Club and a Certified Kapnismologist (don't ask) by Pipe Collector's International... now defunct (don't ask). He is also a Certified Beer Judge, which he concedes has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but might help explain, in advance, the quality and tenor of some of his answers to your pipe questions.
Marty began his pipe voyage in abject ignorance of pipes and tobacco, and over the 45-plus years of pipe smoking, he claims to have experienced and learned a lot. Alas, he's willing to admit that it is possible he has been at it so long that this journey may have resulted in a complete circle.

Woodmere Pipe & Cigar Products

Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:58:20 -0800

Arango Cigar Co. Named Exclusive U.S. Distributor for Woodmere Pipe Furniture and Cigar Humidors
Arango Cigar Co. is now the exclusive U.S. distributor for the complete line of Woodmere pipe furniture and cigar humidors. Arango’s president, Michael Gold, announced the appointment, saying, “These hand-crafted Woodmere products span a broad spectrum of smoking accessories, making it convenient for pipe and cigar lovers to find just what they’re looking for ... high quality at reasonable prices.”
Woodmere humidors, from 10-cigar desk/travel models to 200-cigar prestige cases, accommodate 6-1/2" to 8-1/4" shapes. The various styles are made from kiln-dried exotic woods ... teak, rosewood, walnut, ebony and mahogany ... plus rich genuine leather, and Italian marquetry (bird’s-eye maple veneer). 24K gold-plated locks and lid stays, a unique lid seal, adjustable humidification devices, hygrometers, and cedar shelves and dividers are included, depending on model. All wooden humidors are finished in hand-rubbed polyurethane varnish, for a luxurious piano finish.
Woodmere 1-, 2-, and 3-cigar, O-ring sealed pocket cases are offered in several styles, materials, colors and finishes. Cigar accessories include round crystal glass ashtrays, mounted in solid teak or walnut bases, with cigar rests. Their adjustable humidification devices and a standup teakwood ashtray with pipe-knocker round out the line.
For pipe smokers, Woodmere produces an extensive array of furniture in teakwood and walnut. Pipe racks for desk or wall mounting come in sizes holding one to 36 pipes. For armchair smoking convenience, Woodmere combines them with crystal glass or polished brass ashtrays and tobacco jars, all mounted on the hardwood bases.
Gold states, "We are pleased to have partnered with a producer of distinctive smoking products, especially considering their surprisingly affordable prices. Their performance and quality, at a reasonable cost, offer true value.” All products are now available from Arango Cigar Co.

Ask the Pipe Doc: Q and A

Tue, 15 Dec 2009 22:11:13 -0800

[Ask the Pipe Doc is a regular column comprised of questions and answers provided as a way of educating pipe smokers. Answers are provided by our resident 'Pipe Doc,' Marty Pulvers.]

AT A GLANCE...
Q#1: Pipe Bowl Size and Flavor
Q#2: Brass Humidors
Q#3: Companies that specialize in small bowl pipes.

Question from Walter: Doc: Does the size of the pipe change the flavor and the draw?

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear Walter... That exact discussion came up just a day ago, with another old time pipe smoker. Of course, with almost all pipe-related discussions that hinge on taste, we came to no conclusion. Rich Esserman, a well known pipe collector, claims that big pipe smokes better. Could that have anything to do with Rich's large size and the fact that he likes big pipes?

Photo: Does large bowl size influence flavors?

Again, when it comes to something this ephemeral, or changeable, there is no way of doing a test with a control, so nobody will ever know the answer, but I am almost 100% certain the following answer is correct... it does not matter. Smoke the size pipe you like. It will give you the best possible smoke.

As for the issue of draw that you bring up, that is strictly a matter of proper engineering, and one can mess up the engineering in a large pipe just as easily as he can in a small one. And one can get the engineering correct in a large pipe with the same attention to detail as he would have to use in a smaller pipe. If you said that good construction, in any size pipe, is the key to a good smoke (all other things being equal), I would not disagree.

Enjoy your pipe. From a guy who does not think size matters (although that may be self-incriminating),
Marty, The Pipe Doc
Question from Bruce: Doc, Is it feasible to make a tobacco humidor out of brass? I am considering building a combination pipe stand/humidor as a piece of functional art (or f'art). The canister would be made of brass sheet and aluminum. I don't know if there would be any adverse reactions either to the tobacco or to the metals. Any thoughts?

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear Bruce... I think I would try to line the brass humidor with a non-reactive material. My sense is that the moisture in the tobacco might create a reaction in the brass that would cause the tobacco to pick up a brassy taste. Tobacco is sponge-like to a degree. I wish I knew more chemistry, so I could give you a more definitive answer, but my sense is that the tobacco and the brass will not be good for each other.

I hope that helps a little. If you are determined to keep the humidor just brass, I don't think anything terrible will happen.
Best wishes,
Marty, The Scientifically Challenged Pipe Doc
Question from Alfonso "the Traitor": I currently own three pipes. A Missouri Meerschaum and two Savinelli's. I feel that the Savinelli bowls are on the large size and what I am looking for now are pipes with small bowls. Would you recommend a few companies to me that specialize in small bowl. By the way, when I talk about bowl size I am referring to is the inner diameter not the outer. Thank you for your time!

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear Alfonso (From Marty the Infidel)... I am a small bowl guy, too. Or at least I consider my pipes to have pretty small bowls. In "pipe-guy" parlance, I smoke pipes the size of what is referred to as Dunhill Group 3 or 4. Dunhill gives its standard sized pipes numbers from 1-6, number 1 being the smallest.

In general, I find Italian pipes tend to be large and English and Danish pipes smaller, although that is, again, only a generalization. Remember, pipes are just like people... not because they let others govern for them, but because each one is an individual. So, even if a pipe maker tends to make small pipes, he will make a large pipe if the piece of briar he is working on is large and looks like it will have great grain and make the pipe maker a lot of money. In that situation, he will not make a small pipe.
I wish I could give a brand name, like Jurgen Moritz, of Germany who makes some nice small pipes... but they are expensive. The best advice is to check out some pipe web sites and look at the sizes of the individual pipes. But, if you feel it will help to have a bit of guide, pay more attention to the Danish pipes and the old English pipes, like Comoy's, GBD and Sasieni. The English smoked small pipes because the tax on tobacco was very high. The Danish smoke pipes because pipes are the least expensive way to smoke. Those factors inspire the manufacture of smaller pipes.
I know that was kind of thin, but I do hope it was slightly helpful.
Best Wishes,
Marty, The Pipe Doc
Have you visited...

About the Pipe Doc: Our “Pipe Doc” normally goes by the name of Marty Pulvers, except when he is alerted that an APB has been issued for him. Indeed, he states, his proudest achievement is that he has been in the pipe and tobacco business for over 30 years and still has no convictions.
Other credentials include his being named a Doctor of Pipes by the Chicagoland Pipe Club and a Certified Kapnismologist (don't ask) by Pipe Collector's International... now defunct (don't ask). He is also a Certified Beer Judge, which he concedes has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but might help explain, in advance, the quality and tenor of some of his answers to your pipe questions.
Marty began his pipe voyage in abject ignorance of pipes and tobacco, and over the 45-plus years of pipe smoking, he claims to have experienced and learned a lot. Alas, he's willing to admit that it is possible he has been at it so long that this journey may have resulted in a complete circle.

Why Men Smoke

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:10:20 -0800

[Ask the Pipe Doc is a regular column comprised of questions and answers provided as a way of educating pipe smokers. Answers are provided by our resident 'Pipe Doc,' Marty Pulvers.]

Question from David: Dear Pipe Doc: let's get philosophical… My wife is all over me about my "tobacco use" and wants to know: "Why do men smoke?"

Let's get beyond any fondness for "vitamin N" and delve into what's really going on here. Connection with our forefathers? Testosterone poisoning? Y-chromosome brain damage? I have my own ideas, but I would love to hear what shards of wisdom you may have garnered over your time and travels. Thanks!

Answer from the Pipe Doc: Dear David, If I knew the answer to your question I would have a Doctorate in something a lot more prestigious than pipes. I also do not care to insert myself into the middle of your domestic squabbles with your wife. Even policemen in riot gear do not want to get in the middle of domestic squabbles.

That said, the short (and maybe the long) answer is, "We smoke because we like to smoke." I actually do believe that there is something almost innate in the need to smoke. I have read that long before pipes, men would dig holes in the ground, burn leaves in it and take hollow branches and suck in the smoke. If they had tobacco back then, I am positive they would have been inspired to invent pipes for the purpose.

As you may know, tyrants like Ivan the Terrible of Russia and Murad of Turkey imposed horrible penalties (slit noses… death, that sort of thing) on citizens who were caught smoking tobacco. It didn't work… men smoked anyway.

Tell your wife it may, indeed, be a male thing, mostly, and it cannot be readily extinguished. She will do much better trying to get you to clean the bathroom and vacuum the living room than trying to get you to stop smoking. Her imprecations will merely drive you underground, and before long you will be joining our little Thursday Night Pipe & Pint group in Palo Alto. I am afraid that is as technical as I can get.

Continued Good Smoking for You,

Sincerely,
Marty, The Pipe Doc

[Editor's Note: If you have any comments, or would like to offer your opinions on "Why Men Smoke" send them to doc@stogiefresh.com and I may add them to the appendix of this article.]

About the Pipe Doc: Our “Pipe Doc” normally goes by the name of Marty Pulvers, except when he is alerted that an APB has been issued for him. Indeed, he states, his proudest achievement is that he has been in the pipe and tobacco business for over 30 years and still has no convictions.
Other credentials include his being named a Doctor of Pipes by the Chicagoland Pipe Club and a Certified Kapnismologist (don't ask) by Pipe Collector's International... now defunct (don't ask). He is also a Certified Beer Judge, which he concedes has nothing to do with the subject at hand, but might help explain, in advance, the quality and tenor of some of his answers to your pipe questions.
Marty began his pipe voyage in abject ignorance of pipes and tobacco, and over the 45-plus years of pipe smoking, he claims to have experienced and learned a lot. Alas, he's willing to admit that it is possible he has been at it so long that this journey may have resulted in a complete circle.

Doc's Pipe Collection Video

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:58:56 -0800

Many of you know that I have a "Stogie Fresh Tv" YouTube channel where I post mostly cigar videos. In a recent video, I show my small, but growing pipe collection. I started getting in to pipes about a year ago and I admit I don't know much about the hobby. But as with any other hobby, I've been bringing myself up to speed.
Besides soliciting the best cigar writers in the business to write articles for the pipe section of the Stogie Fresh Cigar Journal, I have also joined the North American Society of Pipe Collectors (NASPC). This is an active group of nearly 1,000 pipe die-hards. The Society publishes a newsletter called: "The Pipe Collector" (right). TPC is written by members and is published 6 times per year. I have also subscribed to Pipes and Tobacco Magazine, which is also well-written and illustrated with plenty of color photos.
There are also many pipe fans on YouTube and I have searched many times for pipe videos. There are a lot out there, but some are better than others. I think it's fun to look them over to see which ones are best and to decide whether or not you want to subscribe to certain producers.
My first video about pipes is simple. I just show some of my own pipes and talk about them. My current collection is small and includes the following pipes: Mastro de Paja Rusticated Straight, Savinelli Milano Handmade, Savinelli Punto Oro 316 KS with Amber grain, Bjarne Sand Blast handmade in Denmark, Don Carlos Smooth Bent Dublin (Estate), David Jones handmade, Kirsten Regent and a custom Lord of the Rings Churchwarden. I am embedding the video below. Enjoy! 

Frenchy's Pipe Tips for Beginners

Mon, 2 Nov 2009 13:41:44 -0800

By Kendal "Frenchy" Franceschi
[Editor's Note: this is the first contribution by the author, who recently retired from a long career in the music industry and also as a proprietor of his own pipe site: Frenchy's Pipes. We hope you enjoy Frenchy's laid back style as much as we do.]

ABOUT PIPES:
First off, a cob is a great way to learn. They're cheap so ya' can get a few different shapes. They're easy to care for, ya' just wipe 'em out after you're done, run a cleaner through and, bada bing, ya' got it.

Pickin' out a briar pipe is so personal that all I can do is suggest a brand and you can pick out one that looks good to ya' within' that brand. As for estates there are some real bargains 'cause they're higher grades at a fraction a' what they'd cost new,

FILTERS:
Very few of the pipes made in the USA take any kinda' filter except the Savinelli Convertibles (which means you can use the filter or use the adapter for no filter), most people toss out a filter if a pipe comes with one and smoke 'em with nothin'. I never use a filter at all on any pipes I smoke. I like to be able to run a cleaner through a pipe while I'm smokin' it to keep it dry and keep any bits a' tobacco from cloggin' up the drafthole. It's very important to be able to do that to make sure your puffin' is always pleasant and keep away the miz'rable tongue-bite. So I'd suggest ya' not use a filter. Or at least try it and see If ya' need a filter I always suggest the Savinelli 6mm balsa filter, it's way better than those paper filters like Medico or Grabow.
As for breakin' a new puffer: most pipes are fairly rugged but if ya' drop one on cement most any of 'em will be liable to crack, usually at the tenon on the stem. But that's at least fixable, if they crack at the shank it's a goner. So if you're gonna be doin' somethin' that's gonna put your briar in danger I'd use a cob and keep your briars for safer activities.

TOBACCO:
For tobacco suggestions: I'd consider smokin' somethin' other than Cavendish for awhile. That's generally a wetter, hotter smoke. Most of the flavored blends are Cavendish with casings (flavorings) on 'em which means heat and moisture.

PACKIN' AND LIGHTIN':
The most important thing is how ya' pack the pipe. With any pipe ya' want it to stay dry and cool so packin' it correctly is as important as what ya' pack it with. First thing is to dribble some tobacco in the bowl. It's called gravity loading as opposed to diggin' the pipe in a pile a' tobcco and just stuffin' it in, gravity loading is takin' a pinch a' tobacco between your fingers and droppin' it in the bowl.
Fill it to the rim and then gently tamp it down. You want the bottom to be very loose, ya' want air down there. Think of it as a tiny furnace, ya' need air flowing through it. Then take some more in your fingers and dribble it in up to the rim, tamp it down (very gently) again. Then do it again only this time tamp a bit more firmly. Keep repeating those steps, tamping a bit more firmly each time, tilL the bowl is full. Now you're ready for the charring light. Just keep a flame touching the tobacco and slowly puff till the entire top has been lit. You're creating a sort of platform. Let it go out.
Then do your second light, gently drawing the heat down into the tobacco. It should be like sipping water through a straw. Airy and light not tight. If you've packed it too tight, empty it out and start again. Once ya' got it packed you're on your way.

PUFFIN' AND SMOKIN':
Keep the puffing gentle, everything about pipe smoking is slow and easy. There are no rules about the number a' times ya' relight so don't worry about that at all. As many times as the pipe goes out is as many times as ya' relight it. When ya' wanna take a break just let it go out and light it again later.
The biggest problem new pipesters have is heat and moisture. They are the enemy, ya' wanna keep everything as dry and cool as ya' can otherewise you'll get the dreaded tongue-bite, which is what drives most new pipe smokers away wonderin' what the hell people like about the pipe.

For the first bowl in a brand new pipe it'd be best to just lick your finger and rub it around the bowl to give the carbon somethin' to adhere to and help get a cake started (the good thing about estate pipes is ya' don't hafta do any a' the breakin' in stuff, they're already broken in so all that's left is the good stuff). Also don't fill the bowl all the way, for the first bowl fill it 1/2 to 3/4 of the way full and smoke it all the way down to the bottom. Do that for the first two or three bowls so you'll be buildin' a cake in the heel of the bowl. Don't scrape it out just gently tap out the loose ash and let the pipe cool. You don't hafta finish the whole bowl at once, if you feel like your mouth is gettin' warm just put it down and light it up later but finish those first bowls till there's nothin' but ash. Also if you feel the bowl gettin' hot set it down and let it cool off for a few minutes.
Take your time there's no hurry. Fact is once ya' get the basics down you'll be smokin' cool and dry and you'll have a thoroughly enjoyable hobby pal.
About the Author:
Kendal "Frenchy" Franceschi started selling pipes on eBay back in '98 or '99. At first, he did it to raise enough money to buy a Dunhill he wanted, but the sales went so well that he started his own pipe site: Frenchy's Pipes. (He never did get that Dunhill.)
For 30 years, Frenchy was a songwriter in Nashville and wrote songs for many great singers like: Loretta Lynn, Reba McEntire, Mac Davis, just to name a few. Frenchy was a regular columnist for American Songwriter magazine. Before retiring this year, Frenchy cultivated a great interest and had a big following for estate pipes. According to Frenchy: "I could put some great puffers in people's hands without it costin' them a fortune so I really enjoyed doin' that."